Hebron (Arabic:الخليل El-Khalil)

Hebron is one of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in the world. Its Arabic name, Khalil al-Rahman, means 'The Friend of God'. Hebron is closely identified with Abraham and is regarded as holy by Christians, Muslims, and Jews. According to tradition, Abraham pitched his tent in Hebron's plain of Mamre. When his wife Sarah died, Abraham bought the cave of Machpela from Ephron the Hittite and buried her there. Located in the center of Hebron, the Tomb of the Patriarchs became the tomb of the patriarchs and their wives. Sarah, Abraham, Isaac, Rebecca, Leah, and Jacob, were all buried there. Hebron lies in a mountainous region south of Jerusalem at an altitude of 1000 meters above sea level. Among its interesting features are the narrow and winding streets, the flat-roofed stone houses, and the old bazaars. It is famous for its blown glass, ceramic, leather, and cotton products as well as its variety of choice grapes.

Al-Haram al-Ibrahimi

Al-Haram is a formidable rectangular building, which looks like a fortress. The construction of the walls and pavement is the work of King Herod. Inside, a vaulted Crusader church has been turned into a mosque housing the tomb of the prophets and their wives.
Inside the mosque is the Mihrab, made of multi-colored marble and fine mosaics. The carved walnut Minbar, or pulpit next to it is a masterpiece of intricate workmanship. Another fine pulpit brought by Salah ad-Din from Egypt, stands near the praying alcove. Additional Crusader and Mamluk structures combine to make al-Haram one of the most impressive ancient monuments in Palestine. There are six tombs in the Mosque of Abraham, which are said to stand directly above the graves of the prophets and their wives buried in the Cave of el-Anbia.

Oak Of Abraham

An oak tree 2 km west of Hebron marks the legendary site where Abraham pitched his tent. Excavations in 1926-28 revealed a Herodian enclosure with a well in its southwestern corner. Until recently, pilgrims used to peel pieces of the trunk for good luck. However, now the Russian Orthodox Church who owns the site and the nearby monastery has wrapped the trunk with steel braces for protection.

Hebron Glass

Hebron glass (zajaj al-Khalili or azaz al-Khalili) refers to glass produced in Hebron as part of a flourishing art industry established in the city during Roman rule in Palestine.For centuries, Hebron has been associated with glass production in the same way as Nablus has been associated with the production of soap. Hebron's Old City still contains a quarter named the "Glass-Blower Quarter" and Hebron glass continues to serve as a tourist attraction for the city. Traditionally, the glass was melted using local raw materials, including sand from neighboring villages, sodium carbonate (from the Dead Sea), and coloring additives such as iron oxide and copper oxide. Nowadays, recycled glass is often used instead. Glass production in Hebron is a family trade, the secrets of which have been preserved and passed down by a few Palestinian families who operate the glass factories located just outside the city. The products made include glass jewellery, such as beads, bracelets, and rings, as well as stained glass windows, and glass lamps. However, due to the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, glass production has suffered a decline and could face the challenge of survival. The glass industry in Hebron was established during Roman rule in Palestine (63 BCE-330 CE).As the ancient Phoenician glass industry shrank from the exposed cities along the eastern Mediterranean coastline, the industry migrated inland, to Hebron in particular. Glass artifacts from Hebron dating to the 1st and 2nd centuries have been found, and are on exhibit as part of the Drake Collection. Stained glass windows which are made of Hebron glass, dating to the 12th century, are found in the structure built over the Cave of Machpelah, which served as a church during the Crusader era in Palestine. Another example of stained glass windows produced in Hebron are those at the Dome of the Rock in the Old city of Jerusalem. With fourteen factories, Hebron glass was exported to Egypt, Syria, and the Transjordan. Camel caravans carried Hebron glass in specially designed wooden boxes that were guarded by both official armies and private guards. Glass merchants in Hebron managed to develop mercantile networks with al-Karak (Crac) in southern Jordan and Cairo in Egypt, which further helped to market the products. Since at least the 16th century, communities of Hebron expatriates became established in these two cities, and a whole social network emerged around the glass industry, which became a major employer, contributing greatly to the wealth of factory owners. Traditionally, the items produced were functional: cups, bottles, bowls, jugs, dishes, olive oil lamps, and later, various forms of petrol lamps. Jewellery and accessories, mainly for Bedouins, were also produced and sold in the Naqab, the Arabian Desert, and the Sinai.

Later in the century, the production declined due to competition from imported European glass-ware. However, the products of Hebron continued to be sold, particularly among the poorer populace, not least of all by traveling Jewish traders from the city. Even at the World Fair of 1873 in Vienna, Hebron was represented with glass ornaments. A report from the French consul in 1886 suggests that glass-making remained an important source of income for Hebron: Four factories were making 60,000 francs yearly. Nowadays,the tradition of glassblowing continues today in three factories just north of the city, a short distance between the town of Halhul and Hebron. Two of the factories are owned by the Natsheh family. They produce primarily souvenirs, most of which are also used as household items. A large hall close to each of the factories displays wine glasses, dishes, bowls, flower pots, and other products. Although most objects are not decorated, some have artistically applied glass strings. Metallic decoration is a recent innovation of the industry. Hebron glass serves as a tourist attraction for both Palestinians and international visitors. Today, however, due to the current export problems, the decrease in the number of tourists, and the restrictions on the movement of Palestinians in the aftermath of the Second Intifada, glass production has been considerably reduced. According to Nazmi al-Ju'bah, the director of RIWAQ: Centre for Architectural Conservation, if the present situation continues, the Hebron glass-blowing industry's main challenge could be survival. The precise production process is a trade secret, which is maintained by the few Palestinian families who run the factories which continue to produce Hebron glass today. Glass making at Hebron is an art that is based on apprenticeship. The apprentices are trained under a master from childhood and essentially grow up in the factory. Masters generally believe that adults are unsuited to learning the craft of glass production, and one master has said, "You can learn to play the 'oud at any age, but unless you begin [glasswork] as a child, you will never become a master." According to the Holy Land Handicraft Cooperative Society, the blowing technique employed is the same as was used by the ancient Phoenicians,though archaeologists and historians of glass agree that glassblowing was not common until the last few centuries BCE.

The craftsman holds a long, thin iron pipe (80?100 cm) in one hand, and dips it into the molten glass inside the furnace, which is heated to 700° celsius. After withdrawing the pipe with some semi-liquid glass attached, he blows through the pipe, continuing the shaping process using a metal instrument called a kammasha. The pipe is then reentered into the furnace, reblown to further shape the object, and the kammasha is used for final shaping once again. Finally, the glass is set aside into a small chamber next to the furnace where it is cooled.

Al-Haram Al-Ibrahimi

Historical background
Al-Haram al-Ibrahimi, the Sanctuary of Abraham or Tomb of the Patriarchs, in the old city of Hebron is considered to be the fourth holiest site in Islam. One of the ancient historical, religious, and heritage sites in Palestine, this 1000-year-old mosque enshrines the tombs of the prophet Abraham, his son Isaac, and his grandson Jacob, and their wives Sarah, Rebecca, and Leah, as well as the tomb of Joseph. It is believed that the prophet Mohammad visited it on his night flight from Mecca to Jerusalem.

Prophet Abraham chose al-Haram al-Ibrahimi, also known as the Cave of Machpelah, which he had bought from Ephron the Hittite as a burial plot to bury his wife Sarah in 1900 BC when he returned to the land of Palestine.

According to Arab legend, the massive stones of the sanctuary?s walls built without mortar were laid by King Solomon. The walls had no doors and therefore visitors had to walk around them. Following the Islamic conquest, the walls were converted into a mosque, and throughout the ages it was a site for reverence and care. Umayyad and Fatimid caliphs, sultans, and emirs tended the mosque. In the year 583 hegira (1187 AD), when the Islamic leader Salaheddin Al-Ayyoubi recaptured the city of Hebron from the Crusaders, he moved the minbar or pulpit from the city of Asqalan to the mosque in Hebron fearing that Asqalan would fall into the hands of the Crusaders. Badr al-Jamali, vizier to the Fatimid Caliph al-Mustanser Billah, gave orders in the year 484 hegira (1091 AD) to build the pulpit with the head of Imam Al-Hussein carved on it.

In the year 679 hegira (1280 AD), King al-Mansour Qalawoon opened the main entrance of the mosque and set up its neighbouring fascia, and in the year 685 hegira (1286 AD) he renovated the doors of the mosque. In addition, King Qalawoon carved verses from the Holy Quran on the dome of Jacob?s tomb.

In the year 720 hegira (1329 AD), custodian of the two holy mosques Emir Sinjer Al-Jaouli built a rectangular mosque on the eastern side of al-Ibrahimi Mosque?s wall, which was named after him: Al-Jaouliyeh. During the reign of Emir Barqooq at the end of the 18th century hegira (14th century AD), Emir Shihabeddin Al-Yaghmouri opened a door in Al-Sulaymani western wall near Joseph?s Tomb. In the year 732 hegira (1332 AD) the cap of the minbar was coated with frieze and the wall of the mosque and the mihrab or niche with fine sheets of marble.

Al-Haram al-Ibrahimi now
Al-Ibrahimi Mosque is a parallelogram that is 65 meters long by 35 meters in width, built of large drafted ashlars. Standing 15 meters high, it is the work of Herod the Great. The crenellated upper part of the wall is of Mamluk origin. Formerly, it was flanked by four square minarets, of which only those at the north-east and north-west corners remain.

Two flights of steps, from north and south, lead to the inner court of the sanctuary. Near the fifth step of the north staircase is an opening under a block in the wall.

The mosque in the southern part of the enclosure is a Crusader church as shown by a Greek inscription in a corner of the left aisle of the mosque, which was an enlargement of the original Byzantine basilica used by Christian pilgrims en route to Abraham?s Oak at Mamre. It measures 28 meters from west to east and 21 meters from north to south.

The cenotaphs of the patriarchs are richly decorated and covered with green tapestries embroidered with Qur?anic verses and other pious inscriptions. They are believed to stand exactly over the burial place of the Patriarchs.

Entrance to the complex is up the Mamluk stairway on the north-western wall of the edifice. This leads via a passageway into the spacious Al-Jaouliyeh Mosque with its splendid columns and calm interior. Entering the Herodian wall brings you into a courtyard. Here octagonal rooms to the right contain the 14th century cenotaphs of Jacob and Leah and the two rooms across the courtyard house the cenotaph of Abraham and Sarah.

Passing between the two rooms, you enter Al-Is?haqeyyah or the Great Mosque. Central to the mosque are the cenotaphs of Isaac and Rebecca, which in their present appearance date from 1332.

In an opening in the floor a light may be lowered to show a part of the cave. The Crusaders opened the cave in 1119 and then closed it up again after examining the tombs of the Patriarchs.

Al- Haram al-Ibrahimi under occupation
Since 1967, Al-Ibrahimi Mosque, like all other Moslem holy sites in Palestine, became a target for the Israeli occupying forces and Zionist settlers. Several attempts to take control of the mosque were made. Gradually, the Israeli occupying authorities allowed Jews to pray in the mosque and later several places inside the mosque were restricted to Jews only. During Jewish holidays Moslems are denied access to the mosque.

At 5:00 on the morning of February 25, 1994, on the 15th day of the holy month of Ramadan, Dr. Baruch Goldstein, an extremist settler from Kiryat Arba? settlement who holds US and Israeli citizenship, opened machine-gun fire at Moslem worshippers during prayer. He killed 29 people and injured 135. On the same day outside the mosque, the Israeli army opened fire towards fearful and panicky worshippers and killed at least ten civilians.

Following the incident, Al-Haram al-Ibrahimi was converted into a military post and later divided into two parts, one for Moslems and another for Jews. Thus the mosque became a point of conflict and constant tension that has marred its sanctity.

Recently, the Hebron Rehabilitation Committee, in cooperation with the Islamic Waqf Department, has undertaken the complete renovation of Al-Haram al-Ibrahimi. The beauty of the external building and the brightness of the colours inside have been restored.



The Hebron Rehabilitation Committee was founded in 1996 by a presidential decree from the late President Yasser Arafat. They can be reached through hebronrc@hebronet.com


This Week in Palestine
April 2008